When Debra Silverstein won the aldermanic runoff for Chicago's 50th ward, she thanked supporters the next day outside City Fresh Market, at 3201 W. Devon Ave. It was an appropriate gesture, considering that the 50^th ward is one of the most ethnically diverse in Chicago, and City Fresh is one of the most diverse grocery stores in town.

The market specializes in Eastern European imports, but offers Mediterranean delicacies, fresh meat, produce, housemade baked goods, cheeses, wine, honeys, and even Kosher, Asian and Hispanic specialties that cannot be found elsewhere in Chicago. Hand-painted murals depicting different regions of the globe cover the walls and ceilings, reinforcing the store's international flair.

“We respect every religious and ethnic group,” owner Danny Kovacevic says. City Fresh has been in business for seven years now, and their flexibility and engagement with customers is impressive. Kovacevic saw a business opportunity in serving the influx of immigrants from the former Yugoslavia who arrived in Chicago in the 1990s, but has since expanded to encompass an even wider array of customers who chatter away in a multitude of languages while shopping.

When City Fresh first opened, there were only a few well-known Croatian brands available in Chicago, but Kovacevic and general manager Jelena Mojsilovic have developed an extensive network of suppliers who can procure the most difficult-to-find goods. If they don't already have what you are looking for, Mojsilovic relishes the challenge of finding products for customers. She is even sourcing special Passover orders of whole fish for a few Jewish customers.

The neat rows of pristine produce are a stark contrast to the haphazard array of often bruised and battered fruits and vegetables found in ethnic groceries like Hmart.

“Everything is put on display one by one,” says Mojsilovic.

City Fresh strikes a balance between the freshness and quality of their produce, baked goods and meats and offering customers an affordable price. 

“We look for quality and try to get the best price for that,” says Mojsilovic. “Quality comes first.”

Owner Danny Kovacevic agrees. He takes great pride in his family business and in catering to anyone and everyone. You may have heard the quote that “you cannot please all the people all of the time,” but Kovacevic isn't afraid to try.

“If I won't feed it to my family, I won't sell it,” he says. Danny's five daughters, ranging from 12 to 22, all pitch in at the store when they have time between studies.

For those celebrating Easter, City Fresh Market has a selection of specialty foods, including everything you need to prepare a meal from Serbia, where both Kovacevic and Mojsilovic were born.

A Serbian Easter might begin with hard-boiled Easter eggs. Traditionally, guests bring one egg for each family member they are visiting and everyone plays an “egg tapping” game, where players hit their opponent's egg to see whose cracks first.

After church, the family would settle down to a hearty Easter lunch, perhaps beginning with a tray of charcuterie and cheese for appetizers, toasting to prosperity and good health with Slivovitz, a Serbian plum brandy. Then comes the main course.

“Lamb is number one,” says Mojsilovic. At City Fresh, they slow-roast fresh whole lamb on a special spit over natural wood charcoal. In the 7,000 square foot basement, roasting, carving and baking is done around the clock.

“We invested a lot of money in the machines, but the taste is so much better,” says Mojsilovic.

Lamb is often accompanied by stuffed cabbage rolls, salads, cheese pie and potatoes. As for wine, a dry red like the Vranac from Monastery Tvrdos in Herzegovina would be a good choice. City Fresh is the only place in Chicago that you can get Vranac or Cabernet Sauvignon from Monastery Tvrdos, where monks have been tending vineyards and brewing wine since the 4^th century.

Dessert might be an assortment of cookies and pastries, accompanied by a demitasse of strong Turkish-style black coffee, brewed in a small brass or enamel coffeepot with a layer of silt at the bottom.

“Our region was under Turkish rule for 500 years,” says Mojsilovic. “A lot of our food comes from there.”

For customers who might be be nervous about unpronounceable words and unfamiliar products, the multilingual employees are friendly, and Mojsilovic says they are happy to explain and offer samples of products to curious foodies.

“We're here to feed people, to give them fresh, nostalgic food.”