Alexander McQueen
A melody of whimsical chimes set the magical mood for Alexander McQueen. Sensuous femininity radiated from couture gowns made powerful and mysterious by the avant-garde head coverings. Based on the three G’s: Grès for the pleating and draping, Gaudí for the architecture, and Gaia for the sense of all-encompassing oceanic life that infused the clothes, Sarah Burton shows once again her affinity to accurately convey the McQueen vision. The collection opened with ladylike suiting in ivory, blush, and metallic gold. Paired with extra-wide belts at the waist, the skirts came to gold ruffles that flared at the knee-length hemline. Ruffles were capitalized on throughout the collection. Literal aquatic interpretation was present in the matelasse jacquard in a barnacle pattern and silk chiffon in oyster print. Black lace pieces took ladylike to dominatrix paired with bondage inspired footwear laced to the knee. Bright coral gave a burst of color to the collection in a few extravagant show-stopping gowns. Headpieces off to you Ms. Burton, for creating another simultaneously shocking-yet-satiating collection worthy of such a legendary name.
Chanel
The show was a depiction of an underwater adventure through the eyes of the great titan Karl Lagerfeld. Inspired by the notion that underworld formations cultivated over millennia yield the modern architecture of Zaha Hadid, Lagerfeld brings contemporary design to the traditional house of Chanel by way of the ancient existence of the sea. Illuminating pastel hues graced the runway in classic Chanel form; boxy tweeds, drop waists, and mille-feuille pleats all carried undeniable femininity. Adorned with pearls at the waist and dotting the models’ slicked back hair, each look was fit for a regal oceanic princess. Florence Welch posed like Botticelli’s Venus on an open shell to provide the soundtrack, “What the Water Gave Me”, to the production. Voluminous chiffon ruffles and ethereal abstract prints met linear graphic details and iridescent fabric radiated with a scale-like texture. Lagerfeld leaves us once again in awe of his creative capacity in spite of his tenured design career.
Maison Martin Margiela
A house obsessed with the anomaly of ‘deconstructed design’, Maison Martin Margiela presents another season of seemingly unfinished avant-garde ready-to-wear. The first model walked the runway holding her languid silk dress in place at the neckline. The signature Margiela boxy silhouette with defined waists and great lengths appeared in abundance in black, navy, and ivory neutrals. Capacious asymmetrical capes brought drama to the collection. In an unscheduled surprise, three looks inspired by the tapestries on which the models were treading were shown with fringed hemlines and topped with cellophane-like wrapping much like the kind we imagine the real rugs arrived in. Androgynous suiting and leather outerwear--tailored to fit, but excess fabric left still intact--produced a somewhat chaotic look that, when paired with windblown, forward swept hair, appeared precisely out of place. With the same notion of nonchalance, we have to declare, no one constructs deconstructed better than Maison Margiela.
Isabel Marant
Paris has shown us endless coveted looks for cocktail parties, red carpet fetes, and the general occasions when a gorgeous spring day inspires us to celebrate with fanciful frocks. But where is our designer casual chic? Right on the Isabel Marant runway, it appears. She was “thinking about what a girl traveling around the world for her summer holidays would pack in her ideal suitcase,” said Marant of the collection. Native inspired woven dresses from shredded tee shirts, brightly colored Indian tie-dyed prints, and patchwork are a few of the textile manipulations present. Athletic inspired jerseys, track jackets and pants proved to be the most relaxed options, while slouchy, draped silhouettes carry on the comfortable vibe as well. Global inspiration continues through the collection with the Rajasthani embroidered vests. Marant gives us great denim design as usual. This season they are bleached and splashed with graffiti as well as printed with cool snakeskin. She’s won us over; we’re ready to fill our suitcases and travel the world with Isabel Marant.
Kanye West
We could not leave you without a mention of Paris Fashion Week’s newest designer on the roster, Kanye West. The debut of his collection drew a crowd of supporters as worthy of review as the clothing itself. The presence of Azzedine Alaïa, Dean and Dan Caten, Olivier Theyskens, Jeremy Scott, the Olsens, Silvia Venturini Fendi and her daughter Delfina Delettrez Fendi (who made an extra effort to congratulate the industry novice backstage after the show) gave validation to the sincerity of Kanye’s venture in design. Unfortunately, the general consensus is that with zippers, embellishments, fur, leather and suede; the collection came off as heavy, lacking a ‘less is more’ mentality. Dramatic plunging necklines, bandage mini dresses, and baggy pants all contributed to an unclear design direction. Accessorized with gold ‘Yeezy’ nameplate jewelry and Giuseppe Zanotti footwear, the only thing cohesive about Kanye’s collection was its lack of cohesiveness. It did receive at least one influential fan;Anna Dello Russo was spotted wearing a complete look from the collection (to Alexander McQueen) - straight off the runway just three days after the show.
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