The history of fashion goes far beyond Anna Wintour’s reign as editor of American Vogue, Alexander McQueen’s humble beginnings at Savile Row, or Kate Moss’ first photo shoot for The Face. Fashion originated when people started choosing what they wore for style, attractiveness, and comfort rather than functionality or the purpose clothing served in their lifestyles. This can be traced back to the late 19^th century and the first couturier, Charles Worth. He shifted the focus of fashion by becoming the proprietor of what was en vogue, sketching and creating original designs for his clientele rather than simply taking orders for their apparel needs. He paved the way for designers, not consumers, to be the dictators of fashion.

It’s no secret that the major evolutions of apparel took place in Paris, as it is still among the fashion capitals of the world. The pioneers of haute couture hailed from Paris, London, and later Italy. Their brands: Chanel, Lanvin, Dior; remain the most influential and luxurious fashion houses today, though many of them began by meeting a basic need—offering an alternative to the constraints of women’s fashion. Often their revolutionary designs weren’t about “fashion” at all, but responses to the era’s current events, which were changing the norms of lifestyle as they new it.

Although Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel discovered her talent as a seamstress very early in life, she began her design career as a milliner and opened her first shop in Paris in 1910. Her premiere hat designs sparked the attraction of the city’s affluent shoppers who would become her loyal clientele. Chanel’s second boutique, opened in 1915, launched her career as a fashion designer. Though she catered to those less affected by the waging World War I, fabrics and styles became more practical and modern as Chanel introduced the use of jersey in apparel and the pant into women’s wardrobes. Chanel’s tweed suits became a signature in expensive, yet casual womenswear and the debut of the little black dress in 1926 characterized both the designer and style as versatile and timeless icons.

With the exception of a hiatus during World War II, Chanel held her throne over couture fashion for decades until her death in 1971. Sophisticated design sensibilities and her innovative vision of liberating clothing placed Chanel among the most influential pioneers of fashion. Amidst the many marks Chanel made on modern fashion, her legacy succeeds her as a household name, a recognizable quilted handbag, and the unmistakable scent of Chanel No. 5.

 

Designer Jeanne Lanvin shares few commonalities with Chanel. A fellow budding Parisian couturier in the early 1900’s, Lanvin also developed her passion working with millinery, but the similarities end there. Married with one daughter, Lanvin created beautiful, elaborate clothes for her child, garnering attention from wealthy Parisians who wanted the same for their petits enfants. The custom children’s designs led to designing matching looks for the mothers and she soon opened a boutique supported by her following of famous Europeans. Lanvin formally became a couturier in 1909 when she joined the Syndicat de la Couture, which regulated the French high fashion industry. She defined her label’s aesthetic as feminine and youthful with intricate trimmings, embroideries, and beaded embellishments in romantic floral color palettes.

Her designs became the pattern for silhouettes of the decade and her robes de style, inspired by 18^th century designs, were a precursor to Dior’s “New Look." With an affinity for many avenues of design, Lanvin empire bloomed in the 1920’s, starting with a house dye factory and numerous shops in the home décor, menswear, fur, and lingerie markets. Lanvin’s venture into perfumes, however, generated the biggest growth for the brand. The first and signature scent for the label, Arpege, debuted in 1927 and was inspired by the sound of her daughter Marguerite playing the piano. Lanvin suffered, but continued to design during the Second World War, alongside other houses with similar or worse fates. Now under the helm of Alber Elbaz, Lanvin is the oldest Parisian fashion house. We are reminded of Jeanne Lanvin’s passion for luxury and feminine perseverance with every purchase by packaging in Lanvin’s favorite shade, Forget-Me-Not blue. 

Post-war lifestyle was all about luxury. Women turned toward fashion as an escape from the malaise of the era, causing controversy with their lavish extravagance in the midst of a frugal economy. Enter Christian Dior, the last great dictator of style, and his first collection in 1947. Coined the “New Look” by Harper’s Bazaar editor Carmel Snow, the Dior silhouette framed tiny waists with bountiful bust lines and full, midi-length skirts. But his road to design success was a long one. The French-born designer recognized his artistic passion and in his youth sold fashion sketches outside of his home for ten cents each. He was drafted for military service, serving until 1942 when he began designing for the fashion house Lucien Lelong.

Dior designed dresses for the wives of military officers. In 1946 Dior founded his fashion house, disregarding conservation of fabrics and celebrating the voluptuous feminine form. “I have designed flower women,” Dior has been quoted; and although his “New Look” took some persuasion, women soon flocked to his expensive, Belle Époque inspired designs. Through his themed collections Dior dictated the decade’s evolution of style; classic suits, ballerina-length skirts, the H-line (pencil skirt), A-line, and Y-line silhouettes. Paris was reestablished as the fashion center of the world and would continue to produce legendary couturiers like Cristobal Balenciaga, Hubert de Givenchy, and Pierre Balmain—all founders of fashion who are still revered among designers today.