Co. - A Chelsea Pizza Haven
Simplicity and Quality

Co.
Cuisine:
Pizza
Price Range: Cheap

Neighborhood: Chelsea
230 9th Avenue (At 24rd Street)
New York, NY 10001
(212) 243-1105
www.co-pane.com

The motto on Co.’s website is “Our pies are not always round.” Perhaps this speaks to their desire to come across as slightly off the beaten path. Perhaps. Despite this odd quirk, Co. comes off as a fairly regular joint, specializing in gourmet pizzas. I use this term hesitantly; not as a criticism of Co., but because I don’t think it really fits. Their pizzas are simple, unadorned. The only thing that makes them ‘gourmet’ would be the quality, but quality shouldn’t imply the sort of snobbery that the word gourmet seems to connote.

Their most popular pizza, for example, is quite possibly the simplest. The Margherita ($13) is as simple as simple gets: tomato, basil, and, quite importantly, buffalo mozzarella. This is no dressed up pizza with duck, hoi sin, and scallions, or some absurd combination that I can’t even dream up that you see served at certain places these days. If anything, Co. is distinguished by their simplicity, a quality I happen to heavily admire. The dough for the Margherita, as with all their pizzas, comes from Sullivan Street Bakery, who they are affiliated with (Sullivan St. makes excellent bread).

Other pizzas of note are the Stracciatella (crushed tomato, black pepper, stracciatella, a soft Italian cheese, and arugula), the Popeye (pecorino, gruyere, buffalo mozzarella, spinach, black pepper, garlic), and the Meatball (buffalo mozzarella, tomato, caramelized onions, gaeta olives, veal meatballs, aged pecorino, and oregano). The Pizza Bianca is popular as a starter, which is pizza dough unadorned except for a light coating of sea salt and olive oil. They have a nice sized wine list for a pizza haven, with most glasses coming in at around $9. Also, the beer list tries to rep NY; they do a good job, featuring Sixpoint from Long Island, Hennepin from the Ommegang Brewery in Upstate NY, and Kelso, from Brooklyn. Also featured is Palm, a great brew from Belgium, and Allagash White, a light and refreshing beer from Maine.