Gemma
Cuisine: Italian
Price Range: Moderate to Expensive

East Village
335 Bowery
(at 3rd Street)
New York, NY 10012
(212) 505-9100
www.theboweryhotel.com/dining

Classic Italian dishes comfortably shine at Gemma, a New York eatery that may not be raising the bar, but they’re certainly keeping it at an appropriately delicious level. With old world elements like thatched wine bottles hanging from rafters, half-burned candelabras, farm-style tables made from distressed wood, and chic counter-parts like the copper-covered bar, Gemma has the feel of an old shoe that just got resoled. Dark wood paneling and soft lighting give your meal a touch of intimacy, while an extensive wine list with a wide range of moderate to super expensive choices allow for a nice evening out.

The classically prepared dishes fill you up with the same comfort as your grandmother’s Sunday dinners. For the antipasto, try the fritto misto, a platter of crispy shrimp and calamari dusted with frizzled lemon zest, or the fiori di zucca, crispy zucchini flowers filled with ricotta. The pollo al mattone, roasted organic chicken served with sauteed spinach, salty rib-eye bistecca, and the sopresatta, dry cured pork salame with black peppercorns, are an Italian meat lover’s delight. One of the brightest bites on the menu is the salmon tartare, a fresh citrus-tinged fish, which is served on waffle-cut potato chips for a pleasing salty crunch. For something interesting, try one of the eleven cheeses, including asiago fresco, a semi soft, mildly tangy cow cheese, and Capri dor, a brine washed goat cheese, which can be mixed and matched for a tasting at a reasonable price.