The Loading Dock
Cuisine: Mexican
Price Range: $3-$6

Downtown Brooklyn
170 Tillary Street
(Near Gold Street)
New York, NY 11201
(646) 355-7518

The Loading Dock is an eccentric amalgamation of a number of influences and ideas. Part neighborhood coffeehouse, part Baja Mexican, and part patron of the arts, it manages to seamlessly integrate seemingly disjointed parts into a harmonious whole. Partners Owen Wright and Forrest Cole, who doubles as the chef, are attempting to become the cultural and culinary epicenter of a blossoming downtown Brooklyn scene. But until then, Owen, a resident of the area for going on 10 years, and Forrest are content to serve some classy Mexican street food and gourmet Gorilla coffee.

The vibe in The Loading Dock reflects the interesting contrast between the owners' West Coast upbringing and the locale's industrial background. Originally an actual loading dock for a garment factory back in the 1920s, the space had been vacant for a number of years before being taken over by its current proprietors. The exterior of the restaurant is completely removable, and at night it still morphs back into a loading dock to cater to the needs of the businesses above it. The décor largely consists of recycled materials being put to good use - the ordering counter is made of wood Owen salvaged from a Civil War era barge, while the rug under the dining table is a dolly that was used to transport barrels. Venture a little further inside and you'll stumble across the dining room that doubles as a gallery for local artists. They rotate the art monthly - currently the Crosby Street Gallery is offering an array of photographs with the theme of urban decay. Remarkably, the restaurant pulls off a unique mesh of gritty industrialism and hipster sensibilities with ease.

The food doesn't disappoint either, as Cole offers up his take on traditional Mexican street food. The tacos are the main attraction, but the menu also offers burritos, tamales, and tortas (Mexican sandwiches). Wrapped in fresh corn tortillas made daily by Nixtamal in Corona, the tacos are a sublime treat. The Loading Dock offers a variety of fillings, from carnitas (deliciously spiced, succulently slow cooked pork), to mahi-mahi or cod fried to golden perfection or grilled to smoky delight. Accompaniments vary from a creamy avocado salsa to freshly made Mexican Crema (think sour cream, but better, if that's possible), all of which accentuate the perfectly prepared fillings. The coffee is always top-notch, although one would expect nothing less from a couple of West Coast transplants. Although they can only offer you a lunch fix currently, they'll be rolling out a full dinner menu sometime this month, and the best part is it'll be BYOB. Don't worry, if you're having a night in, they'll even deliver within a 10 block radius.

Yeah, it's out of the way. Yeah, you probably don't feel like trekking to Brooklyn. But then you remember where the best fish tacos are this side of the border. So whether you've got a discerning palate for fine caffeine, or just a yearning for some tasty Mexican grub, consider The Loading Dock.

Photos courtesy of Ryan Dixon at Dixicon